15 December 2016

Kings Canyon

For my birthday this year, we took a couple of days off of work, and we went down to Kings Canyon. Many people had told us that this was a must-see place, located deep in the Outback. It's about 500 km southwest of Alice Springs, and takes about six and a half hours to get there. We grabbed the tent, the sleeping bags and plenty of water for our journey.

Our first stop was the Erldunda Roadhouse. Roadhouses are a sort of one stop shop along the highway, offering fuel, food and basic accommodation or camping. This roadhouse, in addition to the amenities, also has emus.


From Erldunda, it's about three hours to Kings Creek, the campground we selected for our first night stay. There are only two campsites in the area, and since we were there for three nights, we decided to try them both.

The camping spots weren't bad. Although this was a busy time of year, we lucked out and didn't have anyone next to us. Unpowered camp sites are $22.00 a person. You get access to the gas grills and the outdoor pool. Their site is here. There are also fancier accommodations available, if camping isn't your thing.


Kings Creek has an interesting history. It was first established in 1982 as a cattle/camel farm by Ian and Lyn Conway. Both of Ian's parents were half Aboriginal, and when Ian's mother passed way, the State thought that he would receive better care in an orphanage than with his Aboriginal family. His father, who was a drover and would be gone for long periods of time, eventually returned to the area and reclaimed his son. Ian went on to do well in school and then made his career running a cattle station. In June 2009, Ian and his wife launched Conway Kids, a foundation created to educate Aboriginal kids living in remote areas. To read more about Ian, check out this story here. To read about the foundation, go here http://www.conwayskids.org.au.

We were happy with our choice, and we settled in. After putting up the tent, we watched the sunset over the George Gill Range. The cafe closed at 7, so we rushed back to grab some dinner. They have a grill and do basic cooking.  We had egg and cheese sandwiches.

The next morning we awoke when the sun did. We packed up our sleeping bags and tent, and then headed to Kings Canyon in the Watarrka National Park.

It's stunning. It's hard to convey how vast and beautiful the landscape is, but that didn't stop me from trying! I was basically taking pictures from the time we woke up, until we went to sleep. The hike starts off with a pretty steep climb up to the top of the canyon, at least 10 minutes of steep steps.  But after that, it's pretty flat. The biggest thing you'll have to contend with is the sun - there is not much shade up there, so for the remaining 3-4 hours that you're up there, you need to make sure you have water and a hat!





For more photos, check out my google album: https://goo.gl/photos/3se6sRzP558yv4qf6

26 October 2016

Hiking Mount Gillen


One Sunday afternoon back in early August, we decided, perhaps somewhat foolishly, to climb Mount Gillen.  We had heard it was a good trek, and given how close it was to our house, we thought it would be the perfect afternoon activity.

We decided to bike out there.  It was an easy 6km bike ride out there, most of it along a bike path that follows Larapinta Dr.

The trail is unmarked, but we'd been told to head to John Flynn's Grave, and that the path was just west of there.  It was easy enough to find.  There's an unmarked gate you walk through, and then you start to slowly ascend, up, and up, and up.



It took us a good hour to climb to the top, but it felt like it took far longer than that.  It was hot, there was no shade, and it was steep.  At one point it felt like we were never going to make it, and we seriously considered turning back because we thought the sun might set before we made it back down!

But once we made it to top, it was completely worth it.  The views at the top were unbelievable!


And the next time we go, we'll start early in the morning and wear hats!

Here is the full album of photos: https://goo.gl/photos/vVugdhcZQkSf8age6


02 October 2016

First Camping Trip

There are endless camping and hiking possibilities here. I absolutely love it. At the end of July, we decided to get into the car and head east, along Ross Highway, and into the East Macs (East MacDonnell Range). We packed our tent and sleeping bags and headed out.

From a prior drive out this way, we knew there was a nice little spot for lunch at the Ross River Resort. It's located at the end of the Ross Highway, about 83 km from home. 

After lunch, we backtracked just a little to get on the Arltunga Road. We drove for about 2 hours along a dirt road, stopping a little before 3pm. We wanted to make sure we had enough time to explore the area and set up the tent before it got dark.

As you can see, we're sort of in the middle of nowhere. 


And it was great. After we set up the tent (in the clearing below), I wanted to do a little climbing. So we climbed the hill (pictured) opposite the hill where we pitched the tent.  


We climbed for about an hour. The views at the top were stunning! 


That night we saw the Milky Way! 


The next morning we packed up the little tent, and headed out to Arltunga. 



Arltunga was officially founded in 1887 after gold was discovered in the area, and it was Central Australia's first town. Miners came from all over to mine for gold, but the harsh landscape would prove to be too difficult to manage. The lack of water was the biggest hardship, making even basic survival a challenge. This ghost town once supported 300 people and there was a community that was established, equipped with their own police station (below). 


It was a great weekend! For the full album of pictures, check them out here: https://goo.gl/photos/8FSoeP3sWRtv7DM6A

09 September 2016

Henley-on-Todd

A couple of weeks ago we witnessed an event called Henley-on-Todd. Every year, people build "boats" for this specific event. Some people build their boats in a week's time, others probably take months to make theirs. And some must have thrown theirs together mere hours before the event.

These "boats" are paraded through town, and then eventually raced Fred Flinstone-style in the normally dry riverbed known as the Todd River. It's quite a sight to see and one I'm glad we didn't miss!



This event started in 1962 as a fundraiser for the Rotary Club, and has continued ever since. We actually volunteered to help out at the event. Kevin was on traffic duty and I did ticket sales. After helping for a couple of hours, we were relieved from our posts and free to watch the festivities. 

There were food trucks and stalls, and plenty of places to stand and watch the event. In addition to the boat racing, there were a number of other unique games. One involved shoveling sand into a big barrel, and another involved racing each other in big hampster wheels down the River Todd. It was all pretty fun to watch. 



At the end of it all, mechanized "boats" battle each other. They have firepower and water canons and try their best to defeat the other two boats. 

We've started to say "only in Alice Springs" a lot ...!



For some more photos and a video, go here: 
https://goo.gl/photos/yjCSMsMQ3MYBoZdP6

01 August 2016

One month

Hi from Alice Springs! We've now been here for a month! As always, time is a funny thing. It feels like we've been here ages, and also like we've just arrived.

So far we've gone camping, and have ventured out for various local hikes (pictures to come). We've even seen a kangaroo! 


I've been spending a lot of time learning about this little town, about the people and about their history.

There are two different historic timelines for this place. The first is about the Arrernte people, living in a place called Mparntwe. They have lived in Central Australia for thousands of years. They are believed to be from one of the oldest races in the world. They explain their beginnings through a series of stories known as dreamtimes or dreamstories. In these dreamtimes, the Arrernte people explain their beginnings, how certain geological formations came to be, and why the world is ordered the way it is.

Very close to here are places called Emily Gap and Jessie Gap. Those are the white Australian names for the sites. They are know to the Eastern Arrernte people as Anthwerrke and Atherrke. Anthwerrke holds special importance because it is part of the Caterpillar Dreamstory. The Yeperenye, the Ntyarlke and the Utnerrengatye are descendants from the caterpillars who helped make this area. They are called the Three Caterpillars. In the artwork depictions (thousands of years old), which has been preserved at Emily Gap, they are telling the story of the Three Caterpillars.


These caterpillars became the mountains ranges. As the ranges are the caterpillar bodies, the gaps in the ranges are the results of the stink bugs (Irlperenye), attacking the caterpillars and tearing off their heads. If you're interested, this is a great place to hear more about the Caterpillar Dreamstory.

There's a lot more for us to learn about and explore - we're excited to spend the next 3 years doing so!

08 July 2016

A Week in Alice

Today is our one week anniversary in Alice Springs!

So far we love it. It's been a busy week, and honestly, I can't believe it's already gone by so fast. 

Here's what's happened since we arrived:
1. On Thursday we were met at the airport by our sponsor and by the woman I am replacing. It was great to see friendly welcoming faces straight away. Our sponsor went grocery shopping before we arrived and he stocked our fridge with some essentials - fruit and snacks! We also went to the post office (APO) and waiting for us were the 10 boxes we sent ahead with a bunch of clothes. That was a nice surprise!

2. On Friday we went to work. We got our ID badges, met with new bosses and coworkers, and tried to settle in a little.

3. On Saturday we want to the Fourth of July and Territory Day (local holiday) celebration on base. Great fireworks!

Saturday was also a big day for Australia. There was a federal election. Elections here are a little more complicated than the ones in the US. The current prime minister is the one who called for the elections. A couple of months ago I posted that Tony Abbot, prime minister at the time, had been ousted by his own party, and Malcolm Turnbull was named the new prime minister. Well, Turnbull, upset that the senate had twice blocked a proposed bill, called for national elections in all parts of government. It's called a double dissolution, and it hasn't happened since 1987. 

In this double election, all members of the house and senate are campaigning (this is rare - they have their own election terms and cycles). There are two main parties - the Liberal-National Party Coalition and the Australian Labor Party. The liberals are the conservatives and the labor party represents the liberals (as we understand it).

Campaign literature consisted of the Liberal-National Party Coalition telling people that if they don't vote for them, that there wold be a hung parliament. They also declared themselves stronger on "border security". And Labor told people that if they voted for them, they would legalize same sex marriage, and protect national health care. Then there were several other smaller parties that campaigned on various other platforms ranging from extreme xenophobia to anti-fracking.

Elections are mandatory, and if you don't vote, you're subject to a fine. So far, this election has been too close to call, and officials are stating that it may be an entire month before they can truly know who won. Figuring out the winner is another long story, so I won't get into that. Really, to sum it all up, it's crazy! 

4. On Sunday we drove to Simpson's Gap. It's about 30 minutes from here and a beautiful place for a walk. Here are photos.

5. On Monday, Bella arrived! She was a little frazzled when we let her out of her travel crate, but she's been busy exploring ever since! 

6. Since Tuesday we have been going to work. Heads are spinning trying to learn everything, but hopefully things will start to stick soon!

30 June 2016

Arriving in Australia!


Flying to Australia is no quick journey. We flew out of BWI on United Airlines. Our flight left at 6:27pm on Monday, and we landed in Sydney at just before 7:00am on Wednesday. It's not that the flight takes 2 days. We actually just lost Tuesday. Upon crossing the international date line, an entire day literally disappeared. It's a little jarring mentally, but since there's no recovering the day, it just becomes an oddity to accept.

The flight to LAX from BWI was a bit rough. Small, cramped plane. The only food provided was a tiny bag of pretzels. We had individual screens, but I think you had to pay for most of the programming. 

The flight from LAX to SYD wasn't bad. It was much roomier and each seat had TV screens, with the ability to choose from dozens of movies and shows. We watched and slept intermittently. The food wasn't bad, and to be fair, we had three meals. Also, a bonus - I thought it was a 15 hour flight, in the end, it's (only) a 14 hour flight. 

At the Sydney airport, going through customs, picking up our bags, and finding the taxi stand were all easily accomplished tasks. It took about half an hour to get into Sydney city. After we checked into our very lovely B&B in Potts Point, we went and explored. The owner armed us with a map and some recommendations, and we had a great day exploring the city on foot. We walked along the water, saw the opera house, explored the Royal Botanical Gardens (even our untrained eyes recognized there were a lot of new plants here), saw the neighborhood called The Rocks, the oldest part of Sydney, and then explored the downtown. We can't wait to come back and see more!







We crashed in the early evening, and basically slept until the following morning.

Then we took a taxi back to the airport to catch a morning flight to Alice Springs! Just three more hours in the air ...! 

23 June 2016

What time is it there?

What to know what time it is in Alice Springs?  There are a couple of ways to figure this out.
1. Add 13.5hours to whatever time it is on the east coast, and that's what time it is there.  (16.5 if you're on the west coast.)

2. Don't like math?  You can also google it "what time is it in Alice Springs right now?"

Now, if you want to set up a time to call/skype/FaceTime with us, it can get a little trickier.  If I say that I'll call you at 0900 my time, then what time is it where you are?  In this case, you'd subtract 13.5 hours (again, if you are in EST).  Math still a problem?  There's this great tool: http://www.timeanddate.com/worldclock/converter.html?p1=152
Saturday at 0900 in Alice Springs means it's: 
East coast: Friday, 1930
West coast: Friday, 1630

The time zones and the distances make us seem even further away, but we hear high speed internet is on its way to Australia, hopefully be the end of the summer. ;-P 

But really, even with the slow connections, we'll be sure to send emails and to update this blog with pictures and stories!

And - for reference, here's what time is it now in Alice Springs:
 

02 June 2016

Biking possibilities




We just bought some fancy new panniers! We got them from Baltimore Bike Works, which is about a twenty minute walk from our house. I had dropped my wheel off there earlier to get it repaired, and of course we couldn't leave without adding to our collection of gear!

We even splurged and got Ortlieb panniers! We went with Ortlieb for a couple of reasons. First, the panniers are made in Germany. The company focuses on ethically making their products, both in their commitment to fair labor, and their commitment to the environment. Second, people LOVE these panniers. The employee at the shop highly, highly recommend them. I checked them out online as well, and here's what this person had to say:
The Ortlieb Bike-Packer & Sport-Packer Plus Panniers are truly the best bicycle touring panniers in the world. In this review, I’ll explain why these expensive, German-made bike bags are so popular among commuters and bicycle travelers alike and I’ll give you a number of reasons as to why Ortlieb bike panniers are the only panniers to own if you are interested in having the very best bike bags for on-road use.
And - here's why we're doing this:

Outback Cycling:
  • The Riverside Walk by the Todd River, a great link between the Alice Springs Telegraph Station and the modern township of Alice Springs (approximately 3 km each way)
  • Olive Pink Botanical Gardens, approximately 8 km return
  • School of the Air, Head St, approximately 4 km return
  • Araluen Cultural Precinct, approximately 8 km return
  • Alice Springs Desert Park, approximately 20 km return
  • Simpsons Gap via the Simpsons Gap Bike Path, approximately 56 km return
Cycling trails

Mountain biking opportunities

Flow Nation - Alice Springs 14 

There's even an Alice Springs Cycling Club.

Several places rent bikes, and we have a third one on hand - so if you're into biking, the biking possibilities are endless!

29 May 2016

A Sunburned Country

A couple of months ago, I bought Bill Bryson's "In a Sunburned Country".  I have enjoyed every Bill Bryson book I have ever read, and now that we're moving to Australia, this one seemed like a must.

The first chapter of this book has been published in the NYTimes. Here is it: 
"Flying into Australia, I realized with a sigh that I had forgotten again who their prime minister is. I am forever doing this with the Australian prime minister—committing the name to memory, forgetting it (generally more or less instantly), then feeling terribly guilty. My thinking is that there ought to be one person outside Australia who knows."
Reading this made me smile. I do the exact same thing - dipping in and out of the political leadership of Australia - telling myself I should care who is governing that country (John Howard = bad, Julia Gillard = better).

Last week I could have told you who the Prime Minister was - a man named Tony Abbott (bad). But, then not long ago, Abbott's party decided they didn't want him as their leader any more, and so they booted him out. He was then replaced with a man named something-Turnbull. And this is basically all I know.  Both men belong to the "Liberal" party, which is really the conservative party.

I hope, more than anything, that Turnbull is a humanitarian. And instead of taking delight in sending boats full of people fleeing a dire situation back into the perils of the waters and on to detention centers, I hope that Turnbull welcomes them to Australia, recognizing that there is room in his country for all. After all, this sunburned country seems big enough for all to flourish.

26 May 2016

The MacDonnell Range

According to wikipedia, the MacDonnell Ranges is comprised of more than 9.7 million acres. The range is a 644 km long series of mountains, and consists of parallel ridges running to the east and west of Alice Springs. Camping here is going to be great! The entrance to this park is just a few minutes away!

These images were stolen from google images, from a search of "macdonnell range alice springs".

21 May 2016

House news, part 2 - photos!

Photos of the house and our new car!

The move is getting so real, I'm starting to have dreams about living in Alice Springs!






Given our gross and rainy May, I'm getting pretty excited about living in the desert!



17 May 2016

Housing

Where are we going to live??

Unlike England, you do not get to go out into the economy and just choose any old house.

The government owns housing units all over town, and they chose your house for you. Today we got out housing assignment!

Check out this floor plan! The place has plenty of room for visitors!!


It's about a 30 minute walk into town, or a 10 minute bike ride.

There's apparently a bar and a local grocery store nearby. 

Here's the google street view:


And if you're curious about the area, here's their local websitehttp://www.alicesprings.nt.gov.au




15 May 2016

Some quick facts

Some useful information:

Population of Alice Springs: 27,000

Exchange rate: 
$1 AUD = $.73 USD

Time:
13.5 hours ahead of the east coast, during USA spring/summer
12.5 hours ahead of EST, during USA fall/winter

Weather:
Winter: June to August (0-68F)
Summer: December to Feburary (68-96F)

Travel: 
To drive 
Adelaide: 16 hours, 5 minutes
Darwin: 17 hours, 17 minutes
Melbourne: 23 hours, 51 minutes
Canberra: 1 day, 2 hours
Perth: 1 day, 3 hours 
Sydney: 1 day, 4 hours
Brisbane: 1 day, 9 hours

To fly (Google flights, Feb)
Adelaide: approx 2 hours, nonstop: $200-$300 USD
Darwin: approx 2 hours, nonstop: $300 USD
Melbourne: approx 2.5 hours, nonstop: $750 USD; approx 5 hours, 1 stop: $400 USD
Canberra: approx 4.75 hours, 1 stop: $760 USD; approx 6.50 hours, 1 stop, $495 USD
Perth: approx 3 hours, nonstop: $900 USD; approx 6.5 hours, 1 stop: $600 USD
Sydney: approx 3 hours, nonstop: $760 USD; approx 5.75 hours, 1 stop: $360 USD
Brisbane: approx 5.75 hours, $420 USD; approx 10 hours, 1 stop, $350 USD

To train 
It's actually harder than I thought to research this section. I assumed rail travel in Australia would be like traveling in the US via Amtrak, or like traveling in England with the National Rail. You go to the site, say where you want to go, and it tells you what the price is. However, it's more like searching for airline tickets, where several private companies offer different trips and different rates, and go to different locations.

So, stand by - more on rail travel to come.


Here are the basics - if you want to get to Alice Springs via rail, you must travel on The Ghan. The Ghan is the only train that goes to Alice Springs. Prices depend on how fancy you want to travel. If your departing from the North, you'll leave from Darwin. If you're departing from the South, you can take the train from Adelaide, Port Augusta or Tarcoola.



This interactive map can be found here: http://www.railaustralia.com.au/whichRailJourney.php


01 May 2016

"You're going to Australia"

What's your first reaction when your boss calls you and tells you "You're going to Australia?" For me, it was one of sheer excitement and disbelief. From application to interview to decision, less than a week had transpired. Hard to imagine that your life can change so much so quickly.

Life is starting to come into focus for our Outback adventure, but there are a million things to accomplish before the move. 

The first major thing to research was how to bring Bella. Australia isn't quite as easy as England, where I was able to do the "quarantine" ahead of time. In Australia, it appears she'll be subjected to the same rigorous pre-processing, but then she'll also have to spend a week in actual quarantine when we arrive in Australia.  Oy.

A few quick facts:
  • Alice Springs is in the middle of the Northern Territory. It's also in the middle of the country.  
  • It is 930 miles to Darwin, 1155 miles to Melbourne and 1253 miles to Sydney.
  • It is 13.5 hours ahead of EST, and they do not participate in DST.
  • Summer is from October to March, and it can get as hot as 40ºC; in the winter (May to September), it can get as low as 7ºC.
  • Flights from the east coast are approximately $2100, and around 30 hours of travel time.
  • The best time to visit is apparently from Feb to April. Tourist season is full on starting May.

The tour is for 3 years, with a possible option to extend for one year. 

So, stay tuned as we embark on this next journey!